Winter is tough on tack. Cold temperatures, increased moisture, mud, sweat, and the general demands of riding through the wetter months create conditions that are particularly challenging for leather, metal, and synthetic equipment alike. Tack that is well maintained through winter will emerge in spring in good condition, ready for the season ahead. Tack that has been neglected may be stiff, cracked, mouldy, or weakened — and in the worst cases, structurally compromised.

The good news is that keeping your tack in good condition through winter doesn’t require hours of effort or expensive products. It requires consistency, the right products, and an understanding of what the winter environment does to different types of equipment.

Why winter is particularly hard on tack

Cold temperatures cause leather to lose moisture more rapidly, becoming stiff, dry, and brittle if not regularly conditioned — and cold leather is more susceptible to cracking under the stress of use. Increased moisture from rain, mud, and sweat penetrates leather fibres and, if not dried out correctly, creates the perfect conditions for mould and mildew to develop.

The freeze-thaw cycle is particularly damaging. Tack that gets wet, partially dries, and gets wet again undergoes repeated expansion and contraction that weakens the leather structure over time. Metal components are more susceptible to rust and corrosion in a damp environment, especially if not dried regularly, and synthetic materials can become stiff in cold temperatures while increased moisture causes stitching to deteriorate more quickly.

Tack rooms are often poorly ventilated and prone to condensation through winter, creating conditions that accelerate mould on leather that isn’t regularly cleaned and conditioned.

What you’ll need

Having the right products to hand makes the task considerably more straightforward:

• A bucket of warm water
• A soft sponge or cloth for washing — two is better, one for washing and one for conditioning
• A separate soft cloth or chamois leather for drying
• A good quality saddle soap or leather cleaner — glycerine-based saddle soaps are traditional and effective, whilst newer leather cleaner formulations are often easier to use and very effective at removing ingrained dirt
• A good quality leather conditioner or balsam — Leather Balsam, Neatsfoot Oil, or proprietary conditioning products designed specifically for equestrian tack are all suitable. Avoid products containing petroleum or mineral oils, which can soften and weaken stitching over time
• A small, soft brush — an old toothbrush is ideal — for cleaning around buckles, stitching, and other hard-to-reach areas
• A metal polish or specialist bit cleaner for metal components, though for most everyday cleaning warm water and a cloth is sufficient for stainless steel

Daily cleaning — building good habits

The most effective approach to winter tack care is a consistent daily routine that takes only a few minutes but makes a significant difference over the course of the season. Cleaning little and often is always kinder to leather than allowing dirt, sweat, and moisture to accumulate.

After every ride, remove your tack and deal with it promptly — leaving wet, muddy tack for hours before cleaning allows moisture and dirt to penetrate the leather more deeply and increases the risk of mould. Wipe down all leather surfaces with a damp cloth or sponge, removing mud and sweat before it has a chance to dry and harden, paying particular attention to the underside of the saddle, the girth area, and the contact points of the bridle. Clean metal components with a damp cloth and dry them thoroughly immediately afterwards — never leave metal wet, particularly in cold conditions where moisture accelerates corrosion. Use your small brush around buckle fastenings and stitching, where dirt accumulates and where neglect is most likely to affect structural integrity. Apply a light coat of leather conditioner to all leather surfaces, then allow the tack to dry naturally in a warm, well-ventilated area before storing. Never place tack against a direct heat source such as a radiator — this dries leather unevenly and causes cracking and stiffening.

After particularly wet or muddy rides, remove as much surface mud as possible with a dry brush before introducing any water — adding water to heavily muddy tack spreads the mud rather than lifting it. Wash with a slightly soapy warm water solution, rinse with a clean damp cloth to remove soap residue, dry thoroughly, and apply a more generous application of conditioner — leather that has been saturated with moisture needs more conditioning than leather that has simply been lightly dampened.

The weekly deep clean

In addition to your daily routine, a more thorough weekly clean through the winter months keeps tack in the best possible condition and gives you the opportunity to inspect it carefully for signs of wear or damage.

Saddle: Remove all detachable components and clean each separately. Deep clean all surfaces including the seat, flaps, knee rolls, and panels, using your small brush to work into the stitching and around the knee and thigh blocks. The underside of the saddle and the panel area accumulate sweat and grease most heavily — a build-up here can affect the way the saddle sits on the horse’s back and cause discomfort. Once clean, apply conditioner to all leather surfaces. Inspect the saddle carefully whilst cleaning: look for signs of wear or damage to the stitching, billets, stirrup bar, and panels. Any concerns about structural integrity should be assessed by a qualified saddler promptly.

Bridle: Take the bridle apart completely for a thorough clean — cleaning in pieces allows you to access every surface and buckle hole, and gives you the opportunity to inspect every component. Clean and condition each piece individually, paying close attention to the areas around buckle fastenings, billet holes, and stitching. Clean the bit with warm water and a cloth, dry thoroughly, and inspect for signs of wear, damage, or rough edges. Inspect all stitching, paying particular attention to the reins, cheekpieces, and headpiece — stitching failure under load on any of these components has serious safety implications.

Girth: The girth sits in direct contact with the horse’s skin and accumulates sweat, hair, and dirt rapidly. Leather girths should be cleaned with saddle soap and conditioned regularly. Synthetic and neoprene girths can be wiped with a damp cloth and mild detergent — many can be machine washed occasionally, though always check the manufacturer’s care instructions. Inspect the girth regularly for wear to the leather, elastic, and stitching.

Dealing with mould

Mould is one of the most common winter tack problems. It develops when leather is stored in conditions that are too damp, too cold, or too poorly ventilated, and whilst it looks alarming it can usually be dealt with effectively if caught early.

Use a dry cloth to remove as much surface mould as possible before introducing any moisture — wiping mould with a wet cloth spreads the spores and drives moisture into the leather. Once the surface mould has been removed, clean the affected area with a specialist leather mould remover or a solution of mild saddle soap and warm water. Dry thoroughly, then apply a good quality conditioner — mouldy leather is typically dry leather, and thorough conditioning is important after treatment. Then address the storage conditions that allowed the mould to develop in the first place.

Products to use and products to avoid

Choosing the right products is as important as the cleaning process itself.

Use: specialist saddle soap, applied sparingly to a damp sponge rather than directly to the leather; quality leather conditioners and balsams such as Carr and Day and Martin’s Leather Balsam or Effax Leather Balsam; Neatsfoot oil used sparingly (over-application can cause leather to become too soft and will darken the colour significantly).

Avoid: products containing petroleum or mineral oils, which weaken stitching thread over time; baby wipes and household cleaning products, which can leave residues that affect the surface finish of the leather; washing up liquid and household detergents, which strip natural oils from the leather fibres; furniture polish, which creates a slippery surface that is a safety concern; direct heat for drying.

Storing tack correctly through winter

How and where you store your tack is just as important as how you clean it. The best cleaning routine in the world will be undermined by poor storage conditions.

Tack should be stored in a clean, dry, well-ventilated environment at a consistent, moderate temperature. Avoid areas subject to significant temperature fluctuation — garages and outbuildings that go from cold at night to warm during the day and back again are particularly damaging to leather over time. Keep tack away from direct sunlight, and if your tack room is prone to condensation, consider additional ventilation or moisture-absorbing products.

Store your saddle on a proper saddle rack that supports it evenly across its full width — never hang it from a single hook or rest it on a narrow surface. Use a breathable saddle cover rather than a plastic one, which can trap moisture and encourage mould. If your saddle has a memory foam or air-filled panel system such as the Flair panels in a WOW saddle, follow the manufacturer’s specific storage guidance.

Store bridles on purpose-made bridle hooks or brackets that support the headpiece evenly without creating a pressure point that might crease or crack the leather. Hang the reins in a loop rather than leaving them to hang freely, and use a bridle bag or cover for bridles not in daily use. Store girths clean and dry, not folded or compressed in a way that might affect the shape of the elastic or leather.

Knowing when to replace tack

Good winter tack care includes knowing when equipment needs to be replaced rather than simply maintained. Using tack that is structurally compromised is a safety risk that no amount of cleaning and conditioning can resolve.

Replace stirrup leathers showing significant stretching of the holes, fraying, cracking, or weakening — failure during riding can have serious consequences. Replace bridle components showing significant wear to stitching, cracking of the leather, or damage to buckle fastenings. Replace girths showing significant wear to leather, elastic, or stitching. Replace bits that show significant wear, cracking, or the development of rough or sharp edges.

If you have any concerns about the structural integrity of your saddle — a potentially damaged tree, damaged billets, or compromised panels — have it assessed by a qualified saddler before riding in it again.

Key takeaways

✔ Clean tack after every ride — little and often is always kinder to leather than allowing dirt and moisture to accumulate

✔ Never store damp tack or dry it against a direct heat source — allow it to dry naturally in a warm, well-ventilated area

✔ Avoid products containing petroleum or mineral oils, household detergents, or furniture polish — these damage leather and stitching

✔ Mould can usually be treated effectively if caught early — address the storage conditions that caused it at the same time

✔ Inspect tack carefully during every weekly clean and replace anything showing significant wear to stitching, leather, or fastenings

✔ If you have any concerns about the structural integrity of your saddle, take it out of use and have it professionally assessed

Concerned about your saddle’s condition or fit?

If your winter inspection has raised questions about whether your saddle still fits correctly — or if you’d like a professional assessment of its condition — we can help.

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Further reading

• Why a correctly fitting saddle is critical
• Signs your saddle doesn’t fit
• The WOW saddle investment
• How to recognise your bit might not fit