Winter is tough on tack. The combination of cold temperatures, increased moisture, mud, sweat, and the general demands of riding through the wetter months of the year creates conditions that are particularly challenging for leather, metal, and synthetic equipment alike. Tack that is well maintained through the winter will emerge in the spring in good condition, ready for the season ahead. Tack that has been neglected through the winter months may be stiff, cracked, mouldy, or weakened — and in the worst cases, dangerously compromised in its structural integrity.

The good news is that keeping your tack in good condition through winter does not require hours of effort or expensive products. It requires consistency, the right products, and an understanding of what the winter environment does to different types of equipment. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about cleaning and storing your tack correctly through the winter months, helping you to protect your investment and ensure that your equipment remains safe, comfortable, and in the best possible condition for your horse.

For further guidance on tack care, equipment fitting, and all aspects of equine equipment, visit our Knowledge Centre at www.thefittedhorse.com/knowledge-centre.

Why Winter Is Particularly Hard on Tack

Before we look at how to care for your tack through winter, it is helpful to understand why winter presents particular challenges for equipment maintenance.

• Cold temperatures cause leather to lose moisture more rapidly, becoming stiff, dry, and brittle if not regularly conditioned — cold leather is also more susceptible to cracking under the stress of use
• Increased moisture from rain, mud, and sweat penetrates leather fibres and, if not dried out correctly, creates the perfect conditions for mould and mildew to develop
• The freeze-thaw cycle — where tack gets wet, partially dries, and then gets wet again — is particularly damaging to leather, causing the fibres to expand and contract repeatedly in a way that weakens the structure over time
• Metal components including bits, stirrup irons, buckles, and fittings are more susceptible to rust and corrosion in the damp winter environment, particularly if they are not dried and maintained regularly
• Synthetic materials can become stiff and uncomfortable in cold temperatures, and the increased moisture of winter can cause stitching to deteriorate more quickly if tack is not dried and stored correctly
• Tack rooms are often poorly ventilated and prone to condensation through the winter months, creating an environment that accelerates the development of mould on leather that is not regularly cleaned and conditioned

What You Will Need

Having the right products to hand makes the task of winter tack care considerably more straightforward. The following items form the foundation of a good winter tack cleaning kit:

• A bucket of warm water
• A soft sponge or cloth for washing — two is better, one for washing and one for conditioning
• A separate soft cloth or chamois leather for drying
• A good quality saddle soap or leather cleaner — glycerine-based saddle soaps are traditional and effective, whilst newer leather cleaner formulations are often easier to use and very effective at removing ingrained dirt
• A good quality leather conditioner or balsam — products such as Leather Balsam, Neatsfoot Oil, or proprietary leather conditioning products designed specifically for equestrian tack are all suitable choices. Avoid products that contain petroleum or mineral oils, which can soften and weaken leather stitching over time
• A small, soft brush — an old toothbrush is ideal — for cleaning around buckles, stitching, and other hard to reach areas
• A metal polish or specialist bit cleaner for metal components — though for most everyday cleaning, warm water and a cloth is sufficient for stainless steel
• A dry, clean storage environment — more on this below

Daily Cleaning — Building Good Habits

The most effective approach to winter tack care is to build a consistent daily cleaning routine that takes only a few minutes but makes a significant difference to the condition of your equipment over the course of the season. Allowing dirt, sweat, and moisture to accumulate on tack before cleaning it is always harder work and always less kind to the leather than cleaning little and often.

After Every Ride

• Remove your tack from your horse and take it to a clean, warm area to be dealt with promptly — leaving wet, muddy tack on the saddle rack or bridle hook for hours before cleaning it allows the moisture and dirt to penetrate the leather more deeply and increases the risk of mould developing
• Use a damp cloth or sponge to wipe down all leather surfaces, removing mud, sweat, and dirt before it has a chance to dry and harden — pay particular attention to the underside of the saddle, the girth area, and the contact points of the bridle where sweat accumulates most heavily
• Clean metal components — bits, stirrup irons, buckles — with a damp cloth and dry them thoroughly immediately afterwards. Never leave metal components wet, particularly in cold conditions where moisture accelerates corrosion
• Pay attention to the areas around buckle fastenings and stitching, where dirt and moisture accumulate and where the consequences of neglect are most likely to affect the structural integrity of the tack — use your small brush to work into these areas
• Once the surface dirt and moisture have been removed, apply a light coating of leather conditioner to all leather surfaces using a clean, slightly damp sponge — work the conditioner into the leather using small circular motions, ensuring even coverage without over-saturating the leather
• Allow the tack to dry naturally in a warm, well-ventilated area before storing it — never store damp tack, and never place tack in direct contact with a heat source such as a radiator or heat lamp to speed up drying, as this will dry the leather unevenly and cause cracking and stiffening

After Particularly Wet or Muddy Rides

• After rides in heavy rain, deep mud, or particularly wet conditions, your tack will need a little more attention than a standard daily clean
• Begin by removing as much surface mud as possible with a soft brush or dry cloth before introducing any water — adding water to heavily muddy tack spreads the mud rather than removing it
• Once the surface mud has been removed, wash the leather with a slightly soapy warm water solution using your sponge, working the solution gently into the surface to lift the remaining dirt
• Rinse with a clean, damp cloth to remove any soap residue — soap residue left on leather can cause drying and surface damage over time
• Dry the leather thoroughly with your chamois leather or soft cloth, paying particular attention to areas around buckles and stitching where moisture accumulates
• Apply a generous but not excessive application of leather conditioner to all surfaces — leather that has been saturated with moisture needs more conditioning than leather that has simply been lightly dampened, as the moisture will have stripped some of the natural oils from the leather fibres
• Allow to dry naturally in a warm, well-ventilated environment

The Weekly Deep Clean

In addition to your daily maintenance routine, a more thorough weekly clean during the winter months will help to keep your tack in the best possible condition and will give you the opportunity to inspect it carefully for signs of wear or damage.

Saddle

• Remove all detachable components — stirrup leathers, irons, and girth — and clean each separately
• Begin with a thorough clean of the saddle using saddle soap or leather cleaner, working into all surfaces including the seat, flaps, knee rolls, and panels — use your small brush to work into the stitching and around the knee and thigh blocks
• Pay particular attention to the underside of the saddle and the panel area, where sweat and grease accumulate most heavily — a build-up of grease and dirt on the panels can affect the way the saddle sits on the horse's back and can cause discomfort
• Once clean, apply a good quality leather conditioner to all leather surfaces, working it in evenly and allowing it to be absorbed before buffing to a finish with a clean dry cloth
• Inspect the saddle carefully whilst cleaning — look for signs of wear or damage to the stitching, the billets, the stirrup bar, and the panels. Any concerns about the structural integrity of the saddle should be assessed by a qualified saddler promptly. At The Fitted Horse, we are always happy to advise on the condition and safety of your saddle — visit www.thefittedhorse.com/saddle-fitting to find out more
• Clean stirrup irons thoroughly with warm water and a cloth, dry immediately, and inspect for any damage or wear — stirrup irons that are bent, cracked, or showing significant wear should be replaced
• Clean stirrup leathers with saddle soap and conditioner, paying particular attention to the holes and the area where the leather passes through the stirrup iron, which are the points of greatest wear
• Inspect the stirrup leather holes for stretching, tearing, or damage — a stirrup leather with damaged holes is a safety hazard and should be replaced immediately. You can find more information about when to replace stirrup leathers in our Knowledge Centre at www.thefittedhorse.com/knowledge-centre

Bridle and Headcollar

• Take the bridle apart completely for a thorough weekly clean — cleaning a bridle in pieces allows you to access every surface and every buckle hole, and it also gives you the opportunity to inspect every component carefully
• Clean each piece individually with saddle soap or leather cleaner, paying close attention to the areas around buckle fastenings, billet holes, and stitching — these are the areas most likely to show wear and most likely to fail if they are not properly maintained
• Condition each piece thoroughly after cleaning, ensuring that the conditioner is worked into the leather rather than simply applied to the surface
• Clean the bit with warm water and a cloth — for stubborn residue, a small brush is helpful. Dry the bit thoroughly after cleaning and inspect it for signs of wear, damage, or rough edges that might cause discomfort. Any bit showing significant wear, cracking, or rough surfaces should be replaced — you can find more information about bit fitting and bit care in our Knowledge Centre at www.thefittedhorse.com/knowledge-centre
• Reassemble the bridle carefully, checking that all buckle fastenings are secure and that the billet keepers are properly in place
• Inspect all stitching on the bridle — pay particular attention to the reins, the cheekpieces, and the headpiece, where stitching failure under load could have serious safety implications. Any stitching that is fraying, breaking, or pulling away from the leather should be repaired by a qualified saddler before the bridle is used again

Girth

• Clean the girth thoroughly after every use during winter — the girth sits in direct contact with the horse's skin and accumulates sweat, hair, and dirt very rapidly
• Leather girths should be cleaned with saddle soap and conditioned regularly — pay particular attention to the elastic ends if present, where moisture and sweat accumulate and where the elastic can deteriorate if not cared for
• Synthetic and neoprene girths can be wiped clean with a damp cloth and mild detergent — many can be machine washed occasionally, though you should always check the manufacturer's care instructions before doing so
• Inspect the girth regularly for signs of wear to the leather, the elastic, and the stitching — a girth that is showing significant wear or damage should be replaced promptly as girth failure is a serious safety concern

Dealing with Mould

Mould is one of the most common winter tack problems, and it is one that many horse owners discover with dismay when they go to use tack that has been stored through a period of damp, cold weather. Mould develops when leather is stored in conditions that are too damp, too cold, or too poorly ventilated, and whilst it looks alarming it can usually be dealt with effectively if caught early.

• If you discover mould on your tack, deal with it promptly — mould that is allowed to develop unchecked will eventually penetrate the leather fibres and cause lasting damage
• Use a dry cloth to remove as much of the surface mould as possible before introducing any moisture — wiping mould with a wet cloth spreads the spores and drives moisture into the leather
• Once the surface mould has been removed, clean the affected area with a specialist leather mould remover or with a solution of mild saddle soap and warm water, working gently into the surface
• Dry the leather thoroughly and then apply a good quality leather conditioner — mouldy leather is typically dry leather, and thorough conditioning is important after treatment
• Address the storage conditions that allowed the mould to develop in the first place — move the tack to a drier, better-ventilated area and consider the use of moisture-absorbing products in the storage space to reduce ambient humidity

Products to Use and Products to Avoid

Choosing the right products for your tack is as important as the cleaning process itself, and there are some common mistakes in product choice that can do more harm than good.

Products to Use

• Glycerine-based saddle soap — traditional, effective, and kind to leather when used correctly. Apply sparingly to a damp sponge rather than directly to the leather, and avoid over-saturating the leather with soap
• Quality leather conditioners and balsams — products such as Leather Balsam, Carr and Day and Martin's Leather Balsam, or Effax Leather Balsam are all well-regarded and widely used in the equestrian industry
• Neatsfoot oil — a traditional leather conditioner that is effective at keeping leather supple in cold conditions, though it should be used sparingly as over-application can cause leather to become too soft and can darken the colour significantly
• Specialist bit cleaning products — though for most everyday cleaning purposes, warm water and a cloth is entirely adequate for stainless steel bits

Products to Avoid

• Products containing petroleum or mineral oils — these can soften and weaken the stitching thread used in tack construction over time, with potentially serious safety implications
• Baby wipes and similar household products — whilst these are convenient, they are not designed for leather care and can leave residues that affect the surface finish of the leather
• Washing up liquid and household detergents — these are too harsh for leather and will strip the natural oils from the leather fibres, causing drying and deterioration
• Furniture polish and similar products — these are not designed for leather in the context of equestrian use and can create a slippery surface that is a safety concern
• Direct heat for drying — never use a hairdryer, place tack on a radiator, or use any other direct heat source to dry wet tack, as this will cause uneven drying, cracking, and stiffening of the leather

Storing Tack Correctly Through Winter

How and where you store your tack is just as important as how you clean it. The best cleaning routine in the world will be undermined by poor storage conditions, and the winter environment presents particular challenges in terms of moisture, temperature, and ventilation.

The Ideal Storage Environment

• Tack should be stored in a clean, dry, well-ventilated environment — a purpose-built tack room is ideal, but wherever your tack is stored, these three conditions are the minimum requirement
• The storage area should be neither too cold nor too warm — extreme cold will cause leather to stiffen and become brittle, whilst excessive warmth will dry the leather too quickly. A consistent, moderate temperature is ideal
• Avoid storing tack in areas that are subject to significant temperature fluctuation — garages, outbuildings, and car boots that go from cold at night to warm during the day and back again are particularly damaging to leather in the long term
• Good ventilation is essential to prevent the build-up of moisture and condensation that leads to mould — if your tack room is prone to condensation, consider installing additional ventilation or using moisture-absorbing products to reduce ambient humidity
• Keep tack away from direct sunlight — UV exposure causes leather to dry out and fade over time, and whilst this is less of a concern in the darker winter months, it is worth being mindful of in storage areas with windows

Saddle Storage

• Store your saddle on a proper saddle rack that supports the saddle evenly across its full width — never hang a saddle from a single hook or rest it on a narrow surface that creates a pressure point across the panels or the tree
• A saddle cover is worth using through the winter months to protect the saddle from dust, moisture, and the general grime of a busy yard environment — choose a breathable cover rather than a plastic one, as a non-breathable cover can trap moisture against the leather and encourage mould
• Ensure that the saddle is stored in a position where nothing is resting on or pressing against the panels or the tree — even light, sustained pressure can affect the shape of the panels over time
• If your saddle has a memory foam or air-filled panel system — such as the Flair panels in a WOW saddle — follow the manufacturer's specific storage guidance to ensure that the panels are not compromised during storage. You can find more information about caring for your WOW saddle in our Knowledge Centre at www.thefittedhorse.com/knowledge-centre

Bridle and Headcollar Storage

• Store bridles on purpose-made bridle hooks or brackets that support the headpiece evenly and without creating a pressure point that might crease or crack the leather over time — a rounded bridle bracket is kinder to the headpiece than a narrow hook
• Hang the reins in a loop rather than leaving them to hang freely, which can cause them to stretch and lose their shape over time
• Store bridles in a dust-free environment — a bridle bag or cover is ideal for bridles that are not in daily use, protecting the leather from dust and moisture whilst allowing it to breathe
• Store headcollars on hooks or brackets in the same way, ensuring that the leather or synthetic material is not folded or compressed in storage

Girths and Accessories

• Store girths clean and dry on a girth hook or bracket, ensuring that they are not folded or compressed in a way that might affect the shape of the elastic or the leather
• Store numnahs and saddle pads clean and dry — damp numnahs stored in a pile will develop mould and unpleasant odours very quickly. Allow numnahs to dry fully after washing before folding and storing
• Store brushing boots and other protective equipment clean and dry, and inspect them regularly for signs of wear or damage that might affect their protective function

Rugs and Protective Equipment

• Clean and dry rugs thoroughly before storing, even if they are still in regular use through the winter — a damp rug that is folded and put away, even overnight, will begin to develop mould and unpleasant odours surprisingly quickly
• Follow the manufacturer's care instructions for washing rugs — most modern turnout and stable rugs can be machine washed at the appropriate temperature, and many manufacturers offer a rug washing and reproofing service that is well worth using at least once a season
• Store clean, dry rugs in breathable rug bags rather than plastic storage bags, which trap moisture and accelerate the deterioration of the waterproof membrane in turnout rugs

Knowing When to Replace Tack

Good winter tack care includes knowing when equipment has reached the end of its serviceable life and needs to be replaced rather than simply cleaned and continued in use. Using tack that is dangerously worn or structurally compromised is a safety risk that no amount of cleaning and conditioning can resolve.

• Replace stirrup leathers that show significant stretching of the holes, fraying, cracking, or weakening of the leather — stirrup leather failure during riding can have serious consequences and should never be risked
• Replace bridle components — reins, cheekpieces, headpiece — that show significant wear to the stitching, cracking or weakening of the leather, or damage to the buckle fastenings
• Replace girths that show significant wear to the leather, elastic, or stitching — a girth failure during riding is a serious safety concern
• Replace bits that show significant wear, cracking, or the development of rough or sharp edges — a damaged bit can cause injury to the horse's mouth
• Have your saddle assessed by a qualified saddler or saddle fitter if you have any concerns about its structural integrity — a saddle with a broken or damaged tree, damaged billets, or compromised panels is not safe to ride in and should be taken out of use until it has been professionally assessed and repaired or replaced. At The Fitted Horse, we can assess the safety and condition of your saddle as part of our fitting service — visit www.thefittedhorse.com/saddle-fitting to find out more

A Winter Tack Care Checklist

To make it easy to keep on top of your winter tack care, here is a simple checklist to refer to:

After every ride:

• Wipe down all leather surfaces to remove mud, sweat, and moisture
• Dry all metal components thoroughly
• Apply a light coat of conditioner to all leather surfaces
• Allow tack to dry naturally before storing

Weekly:

• Dismantle bridle completely and clean every component individually
• Deep clean saddle including panels and underside
• Clean and inspect girth thoroughly
• Inspect all stitching, buckle fastenings, and billet holes for signs of wear
• Clean and dry all metal components including bit and stirrup irons

Monthly:

• Apply a generous conditioning treatment to all leather
• Inspect all tack carefully for signs of damage, wear, or deterioration
• Review storage conditions and address any issues with moisture or ventilation
• Check all safety-critical components — stirrup leathers, billets, reins, girth

At The Fitted Horse, we are committed to helping you get the very best from your equipment — and that includes helping you keep it in the best possible condition throughout the year. If you have any concerns about the condition or fit of your tack, or if you would like to book a professional fitting consultation, please visit us at www.thefittedhorse.com or browse our full library of guides and articles in the Knowledge Centre at www.thefittedhorse.com/knowledge-centre.